Years ago I saw a sliding barn door in a magazine, and I instantly knew I wanted one somewhere in my house. They, of course, remind me of life on the farm, and they also help when you are short of swing space, like we are in our office and pantry. After seeing the price of the hardware, though, I knew I needed to find something more budget friendly, especially since I was making 2 doors. So I got actual barn door hardware, just like my family still uses on their farm buildings.
The door itself was easy to make. My office door is 32″ wide, but it is easy to adjust the size to your needs by changing the number or sizes of vertical boards used.
I began by making a frame of 1x4s for the stiles and 1x6s for the rails. Attach the rails to the stiles using 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. See the diagram below; the white Ps indicate pocket screws, the dark blue pieces are 1x6s and the light blue are 1x4s. I used the Kreg Jig master system for the pocket holes and highly recommend it. I love using it and the way the pieces pull together cleanly and tightly. They offer a simpler version, the Kreg Jr., at a lower price if you’re not ready to invest in the master system.
Barn Door Frame
Barn Door Back
Barn Door Front- laying cross bucks
Once I constructed the frame, I layed it face down and then simply screwed my vertical boards into each of the 3 rails, starting on one side and working to the other.
The last step was to install the cross bucks. I layed 1/4s at a diagonal, then marked my angles and cut. I attached these with screws from the back of the door.
Barn Door – Dry fit and testing layout
To hang the door, I hung a 1×6 above the door way, screwing directly into studs. I then attached a bracket at either end of the board and slid the box rail through the brackets.
Rollers attached to top of door
Box rail, bracket, and screw keeping box rail in place and door from rolling off rail.
I attached the box hangers to the top of the door and then rolled them into the rail. Once the door was hung, I added screws through the bottom of each bracket through the box rail. This served 2 purposes: to keep the rail from sliding back and forth in the brackets and to keep the door from rolling off the rail… which is kind of important!
The total for the hardware was about $75… that was way easier to swallow than the $300 – $500 + I was finding elsewhere! Check Tractor Supply or other agriculture supply stores for good prices if you have any nearby.
In order to protect our wall and trim, and to keep the door from swinging away from the wall and crashing back in, we installed this guide track and roller just inside the door frame above the baseboard. It isn’t necessary, but it is helpful!
Galvanized door pull, aged with vinegar
To complete the door, I installed a galvanized barn pull, which I aged by placing it in vinegar for a few hours. Then I added a loop lock to the office door.
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Excellent job of explaining the process. The results look great.
Thank you!!
This door is beautiful! Thanks for sharing. I’d love to know how you distressed the wood!! Cheers
Thank you Niki! I distressed the door with vaseline. I tried several different techniques until I liked the result. I first stained the wood with Minwax Special Walnut then I rubbed Vaseline on with my fingers in key spots like the edges and in the cracks. I then applied a creamy white over top the whole door. I had tried a brighter white first to match my trim, but it didn’t give a very real, vintage feel. After the first coat of paint, I added a little more Vaseline in some of those same spots as well as new ones, and painted another coat of white. After the paint was dry, I scratched it off where I had put the Vaseline. I tried using different things, like steel wool, sand paper, and scrubbing pads, but the fingernails worked the best! It made it look more like peeling paint. Hope this helps! If I get a chance, I will post a tutorial. Thanks for checking in!
Wow …. i am so inspired!!! You are amazing, thamks for the great ideas.
Awww… thank you Sally!