Lincoln Log Waterfall Bench

I really, really need to write these posts closer to when I build the project, but I have this terrible habit of being too excited to jump into the next thing, which then becomes the next thing, and so on. So please forgive me!

This bench is the result of trying to learn to use my router. And let me tell you, I really enjoyed jumping into something new. As I worked on building it and fitting the pieces together, it totally reminded me of building with Lincoln Logs when I was younger and so in my mind it became the Lincoln Log bench.

We’ve used this bench basically as a table out by our pool. (Check out our full pool area here!) As this was really an experiment for me, I’ll show you how I built it, and then give you a few thoughts on how to modify if you do indeed want to use it as a bench.

Materials and Design

This entire bench is made from 1x2s. There are the long bench top pieces, the shorter leg pieces, the feet that lay on the ground, and then the two perpendicular support pieces that the top planks fit into. I really didn’t want to see any hardware, and I wanted the edge pieces to fall over like a waterfall to give a very simple, modern profile. Although I initially thought about using a pocket hole underneath the bench top pieces and into the leg, I worried this might not be strong enough structurally. I ultimately decided on drilling one screw at each end of each top piece into the legs so each bench top could rest on top of its leg.

As I worked through my building process, I realize there are two main pieces: learning to use a router, and the simple bench construction. Because I’m a total newbie at the router, I decided to share a bit about how I set it up below.

Tools & Supplies

Lumber – all 1×2
10 @ 58″ – bench tops
10 @ 14 1/4″ – legs
2 @ 16 1/2″ – feet
2 @ 15″ – benchtop supports

Router – I purchased this router as I found it was a great option for the budget that came with a table so that I had the option of both table routing and free-hand routing. I’ve done both, depending on the project.

Router Bit – I used a straight 3/4″ router bit. Router bits are pricey. So to get me started, I just bought a set like this with a variety of bits and to work on my routing skills.

Countersink Drill Bits – I used drill bits like these with a sharp tapered bit so that I could countersink the screws on the bottom of the feet. The tapered bit minimized bit-walking to create accurate holes, which are important in the assembly.

Screws – I keep these screws on hand in a variety of lengths and thicknesses as they come in handy on so many projects. They are sharp and the star bit helps with driving.

Finish – I used Minwax Spar Urethane as the table sits outside. I chose the spray version since this piece has so many nooks and crannies! If indoors, I would use a low-sheen Polycrylic.

Kreg Multi-mark

Bench Assembly

For full assembly and details, be sure to grab the plans below:

Routing

As I’m learning to use my router, I have needed to both watch YouTube videos on how to make specific cuts, AND actually get into my shop and play around. It’s hard for me, personally, to figure out how to set up a cut until I actually have everything in front of my and play with the layout/ set up/ clamping to get the right result. And so I’m including my process below as additional help, knowing full well that if you are new to routing like me, you will need additional sources. If you’re not new to routing, you may as well skip this piece! But I’m including it as I find that proficient woodworkers sometimes forget to show things that are second nature to them 🙂 Although I worried that all of this routing and adjusting would take forever, it actually went pretty quickly once I got everything set up.

Set Up

The first pieces I routed were the bench tops. I clamped 3 of the top pieces together to cut them at the same time. Check out my set up below. This same set up needs to be repeated on the left side so you can route one way through the notch, and then bring it back the other way.

I used a 3/4″ straight bit, but the notch it made was slightly smaller than the width of the 1×2, meaning I needed to make second pass to slightly widen the notch. With two passes, you could also use a smaller bit, like a 1/2″.

I first measured and marked the notches on the long pieces. I did a lot of visual lining up to make sure my router was in the right spot. But this was easier than it sounds. I just pushed my router up against the square, then looked underneath and slid the 1x2s until they were in the right spot.

To make the notches 3/4″ deep, I needed to make several passes through. I began with a very shallow pass, then continued to drop the bit until it was down 3/4″. My Kreg multi mark really came in handy here because it was precise. I just set it right at the 3/4″ mark, and continued to lower the bit with each pass until I got to the proper depth with the blue portion laying flush on my router base.

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I also cut the two cross pieces at the same time, which helped keep them consistent. I began by marking off my cuts, and making an x in the parts that would be cut out. This is imperative as you are working because you’ll quickly forget which part is supposed to remain and which is the notch!

Modifications

This piece was a fun design experiment for me and it works perfectly for our needs as a coffee table. But depending on how you want to use this piece, you may wish to make some modifications to the design. For one, I think it would need more structural support if it was going to be used as an actual bench instead of a coffee table as we use it for. And I’m not going to try to claim you would want to use this as a bench beyond maybe sitting down to put your shoes on as the 1x2s aren’t the kindest to your butt and legs!

So here are some ideas to increase comfort and/or stability.

1. Shortening the overall bench will improve stability as the span will be shorter and can then support more weight.
2. Adding in a 3rd cross support to the center of the bench.
3. Adding in 1 or 2 stretchers across the bottom of the piece to keep bottoms of legs pulled in. This would be as simple as attaching a 1×2 to the long feet on either end with pocket screws underneath.
4. Using 1x3s instead of 1x2s will also increase strength. In this case, your notches would all need to be 1 1/4″ deep instead of 3/4″ deep.
5. Using 2x boards will increase strength and comfort. In this case, of course, your notches would need to be 1 1/2″ wide.
6. Moving the boards closer together, perhaps with 1/2″ gaps, will also increase comfort.

I loved

designing and building this project! If anyone decides to built it, even a modified version, I would love to see it!

Happy Building!

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