If you are looking to add some storage space to a basic bathroom, this linen cabinet could be just the ticket. Customize it to your dimensions and finish to give your bath a custom feel.

In the hall bathroom at the Plain Jane, there was a lot of empty space between the vanity and the toilet. While putting in a larger vanity could have been an option, it would have required not only a new vanity and sink, but also moving the light fixtures and possibly moving plumbing depending on the set up under the vanity. So to take advantage of the space, I built this linen cabinet. It also gave me a chance to bring in more of the chosen vanity color and have fun with the door insert, which was, in all honesty, the entire inspiration behind this piece!

If you need any more ventilated cabinet inspiration, definitely check out this post here.

The bulk of this project was made with paint grade panels that are 5/8″ thick and 15 1/4″ wide. You could use 1x stock pieces or plywood. I decided on the panels because I didn’t want to cut down the larger sheets of plywood. These are the panels I used.

Supplies

  1. 1×16 Paint or stain grade panel
    2 @ 6′
    3 @ 18″
    Additional desired shelves at 18″, cut down to width of 14 1/4″
  2. 1×2
    4 @ 6′ vertical trim
    6 @ 15 1/4″ side trim
    5 @ 20″ front and back horizontal trim
    4 @ 14 3/4″ top and bottom trim
    4 @ 2′ top and bottom trim
    2 @ 47 1/2″ bottom door side frame
    2 @ 21 1/2″ top door side frame
    4 @ 17″ horizontal door frames
  3. luan cut to size for back (~23″ x 6′) and lower door panel (~21″ x 47″)
  4. insert for top panel
  5. hinges
  6. magnetic door catches
  7. pulls

Steps

  1. Begin by making the box, using 1″ pocket screws facing the outside.
  2. Attach bottom shelf for upper cabinet, as shown below, using 1″ pocket screws. Attach other shelves at desired spacing. Other shelves should be trimmed down to 14 1/4″ wide and can be installed with movable pegs if desired.

  3. Add 1×2 @ 15 1/4″ flush to top and bottom of each side, securing with glue and brad nails.
  4. Secure 1×2 back trim: 2 6′ vertical pieces and 2 20″ horizontal pieces, with glue and nails. Horizontal pieces should be flush to top and bottom, vertical pieces flush to inside of sides.
  5. Check for square, then secure luan on back with nails and glue.
  6. Attach 1×2 front trim, 2 6′ vertical pieces and 2 20″ horizontal pieces, with glue and nails. Horizontal pieces should be flush to top and bottom, vertical pieces flush to inside of sides. Also attach 20″ horizontal trim for bottom shelf of top cabinet. Additionally, I added 1/4″ lattice on the sides to coincide with the front trim. You can use 1×2 if you’d like.
  7. Measure and build doors, using 1×2 frames. The lower panel is made from luan, glued and nailed from the back.
  8. Trim out top and bottom with 1×2, overhanging the edge by 1/2″. On the bottom, you can use 1×3 on the sides to create a place to attach feet, if desired. I originally planned on feet then decided to just stick with the trim.

  9. Finish as desired. I caulked edges, filled nail holes, primed, and painted with Sherwin Williams Jasper Stone.
  10. Drill holes for hinges, using shims to center the door in the opening.
  11. I purchased this 24″ x 24″ sheet of expanded steel to fit the opening, then spray painted it and the hinges. I used my favorite gold colored spray paint, which you can find here. It isn’t as shiny as the lid suggests.
  12. Cutting down the steel wasn’t easy, but I got a nice forearm workout 🙂 Thank goodness my tennis elbow didn’t flare up! These are the snips I used.
  13. MAJOR TIP: Don’t be like me. Measure and drill your pull holes before installing the steel grill. Need I say more?
  14. Lay the steel over top the opening, securing with staples.
  15. After hanging the doors, I used these simple magnetic catches as door stops.
  16. I then attached my bar pulls.

Bar pulls | Faucet | Mirror | Towel Ring | Hinges
Gold Paint | Door Insert | Light

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Marianne

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